A possible mechanism of generation of extreme waves in shallow water

2007/02/26 by Ken‐ichi Maruno, Ken-ichi Maruno, Maruno, Ken-ichi +4
Earth and Planetary Sciences · Mathematics · Physics and Astronomy · #Advanced Mathematical Physics Problems #FOS: Physical sciences #Fluid Dynamics (physics.flu-dyn) #Nonlinear Waves and Solitons #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing #Pattern Formation and Solitons (nlin.PS) #nlin.PS #physics.flu-dyn

paper · pdf · doi:10.48550/arxiv.nlin/0702052

16 pages, arxiv version does not include figures. The complete versions including figures are available in http://www.math.utpa.edu/kmaruno/freakpaper.ps http://www.math.utpa.edu/kmaruno/freakpaper.pdf

arxiv created 2007/02/26 · openalex publication_date 2007/02/26 · arxiv updated 2009/12/01 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/07/28

Abstract

We consider a mechanism of generation of huge waves by multi-soliton resonant interactions. A non-stationary wave amplification phenomenon is found in some exact solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation. The mechanism proposed here explains the character of extreme waves and of those in Tsunami.

Related

• Soliton interactions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and generation of large-amplitude water waves
• Mathematical Aspects of Extreme Water Waves
• Numerical study of the KP equation for non-periodic waves
• Soliton groups as the reason for extreme statistics of unidirectional sea waves
• Experiments on extreme wave generation using the Soliton on Finite Background