1957/08/01 by G. D. Crapper · 2 citations
Earth and Planetary Sciences · Environmental Science · #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing #Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes #Methane Hydrates and Related Phenomena #Amplitude #Crest #Physics #Wavelength #Gravity wave #Capillary wave #Mechanical wave #Mechanics #Internal wave #Classical mechanics #Wave propagation #Longitudinal wave #Surface wave #Optics
paper · doi:10.1017/s0022112057000348
openalex publication_date 1957/08/01 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/07/28
An exact solution is found in a fairly simple form for two-dimensional progressive waves of arbitrary amplitude on a fluid of unlimited depth, when only surface tension and not gravity is taken into account as the restoring force. The calculated wave forms are exhibited graphically for various amplitudes, and the relation between wave velocity and amplitude is plotted. The wave of greatest height occurs when the vertical distance between trough and crest is 0·730 wavelengths (compared with 0·142 for gravity waves). Higher waves are prevented from appearing by the enclosing of air bubbles in the troughs.