1967/03/20 by D. H. Peregrine · 2 citations
Earth and Planetary Sciences · Mathematics · #Coastal and Marine Dynamics #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing #Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research #Boussinesq approximation (buoyancy) #Constant (computer programming) #Kondratiev wave #Amplitude #Physics #Mechanics #Shallow water equations #Longitudinal wave #Equations of motion #Wave propagation #Classical mechanics #Mathematical analysis #Mathematics #Optics #Computer science
paper · doi:10.1017/s0022112067002605
openalex publication_date 1967/03/20 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/08/08
Equations of motion are derived for long waves in water of varying depth. The equations are for small amplitude waves, but do include non-linear terms. They correspond to the Boussinesq equations for water of constant depth. Solutions have been calculated numerically for a solitary wave on a beach of uniform slope. These solutions include a reflected wave, which is also derived analytically by using the linearized long-wave equations.