2017/12/30 by In Woo Chang · 1 citation
Arts and Humanities · Business, Management and Accounting · #Cultural and Historical Studies #Consumer Perception and Purchasing Behavior #Fashion and Cultural Textiles
paper · doi:10.7233/jksc.2017.67.8.064
openalex publication_date 2017/12/30 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2025/11/06
초록 · 키워드 목차 오류제보하기 The Purpose of this study is to identify the origin of the Jangui(長衣) and the process of its Korean traditionalization(國俗化) through analyzing the excavated costume and Korean confucian scholar"s collections(文集). The results are : Korean Jangui originated from the Chinese Jangui in its role and name. but the Korean Jangui created its own characteristics regarding construction through blending Chinese Jangui and Korean Jangyu(長襦, Three Kingdoms period coat). The role of Jangui was to be worn as an undergarment called a Jooui(中衣), inside ritual clothes like Jaebok(祭服) or Joebok(朝服) or Sangbok(喪服) which were constructed in a two-piece style. The Jangui provided cover for exposed parts of the body which explains its lack of slits. The Jangui can be characterized as a one-pieced style with a square collar called Mokpangit(목판깃), straight sleeves, trapezoidal gussets and triangular gussets, White cuffs called Geodulji(거들지) no slits. We postulate that the square collar, straight-sleeve, the one-piece style originated from Jangyu and Geodulji and trapezoidal gussets were originated from the Chinese Jangui. There are three changes in the Jangui in wearing and constructions in Josean Dynasty. Theses changes were due to desires to conform to confucianism, which had gende-specific. #geodulji(거들지) #jangui(장의) #jooui(중의 #中衣) #Korean traditionalization(국속화) #trapezoidal gussets(사다리꼴무) ABSTRACTⅠ. 서언Ⅱ. 남녀 장의 관련 기록과 출토 현황Ⅲ. 장의 착용 및 구성 관련 기록과 출토유물Ⅳ. 장의와 복요 및 국속화 논의Ⅴ. 결언References