2019/09/10 by Raphael Stuhlmeier, Stuhlmeier, Raphael, Teodor Vrećica +3
Earth and Planetary Sciences · #76B15 #86A05 #Coastal and Marine Dynamics #FOS: Physical sciences #Fluid Dynamics (physics.flu-dyn) #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing #Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
paper · pdf · doi:10.48550/arxiv.1909.04348
openalex publication_date 2019/09/10 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/07/28
We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model situations of interest, such as the mild slope and modified mild slope equations, the Zakharov equation, or the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. These deterministic equations yield accompanying stochastic equations for averaged quantities of the sea-state, like the spectrum or bispectrum. We discuss several of these in depth, touching on recent results about the stability of open ocean spectra to inhomogeneous disturbances, as well as new stochastic equations for the nearshore.