Identification of wave breaking from nearshore wave-by-wave records

2023/08/23 by Karoline Holand, Holand, Karoline, Henrik Kalisch +17
Earth and Planetary Sciences · #Coastal and Marine Dynamics #FOS: Physical sciences #Fluid Dynamics (physics.flu-dyn) #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing #Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes

paper · pdf · doi:10.48550/arxiv.2308.12046

openalex publication_date 2023/08/23 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/07/28

Abstract

Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in terms of temporal wave trough area, and a differential parameter is defined in terms of maximum steepness of the crest front period. The criteria tested here are based solely on sea surface elevation derived from standard pressure gauge records. They identify breaking and non-breaking waves with an accuracy between 84% and 89% based on the examined field data.

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