2023/08/23 by Saulo Mendes, Mendes, Saulo
Earth and Planetary Sciences · #Arctic and Antarctic ice dynamics #Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics (physics.ao-ph) #Coastal and Marine Dynamics #FOS: Physical sciences #Fluid Dynamics (physics.flu-dyn) #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
paper · pdf · doi:10.48550/arxiv.2308.12472
openalex publication_date 2023/08/23 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/07/28
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As the spatial evolution of the exceedance probability of irregular waves is affected by second-order effects in steepness, the nonlinear shoaling coefficient throughout a symmetrical and steep breakwater is investigated through a stochastic framework. By inverting the effect of slope on normalized wave height distribution, it is possible to obtain a closed-form slope dependence of the nonlinear shoaling coefficient compatible with experiments over steep breakwaters.