On Deviations from Gaussian Statistics for Surface Gravity Waves

2005/03/31 by M. Onorato, Miguel Onorato, Onorato, M. +4 · 1 citation
Earth and Planetary Sciences · Environmental Science · Mathematics · Physics and Astronomy · #Astronomy #Chaotic Dynamics (nlin.CD) #Coastal and Marine Dynamics #FOS: Physical sciences #Gaussian #Geodesy #Geology #Geometry #Gravitational wave #Mathematics #Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing #Physics #Quantum mechanics #Soil Moisture and Remote Sensing #Statistical physics #Statistics #Surface (topology) #Surface gravity #nlin.CD

paper · pdf · doi:10.48550/arxiv.nlin/0503071

5pages, 2 figures

arxiv created 2005/03/31 · openalex publication_date 2005/03/31 · arxiv updated 2009/12/01 · openalex created_date 2025/10/10 · openalex updated_date 2026/08/05

Abstract

Here we discuss some issues concerning the statistical properties of ocean surface waves. We show that, using the approach of weak turbulence theory, deviations from Gaussian statistics can be naturally included. In particular we discuss the role of bound and free modes for the determination of the statistical properties of the surface elevation. General formulas for skewness and kurtosis as a function of the spectral wave action density are here derived.

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